Gemologists Louise de Rothschild and Keagan Ramsamy were both working in the jewelry department at Parisian auction house Pierre Bergé & Associés when they realized they shared a common vision.
“Our dream was to contribute to the next chapter of great jewelry history,” Rothschild told JCK. “Natural resources are finite; therefore, it was clear we needed to create a jewelry company that uses modern resources, which are both precious and respectful of the environment.”
In September 2022, they launched Mazarin, a lab-grown jewelry brand named after 18 extraordinary diamonds collected in the 17th century by Cardinal Mazarin, godfather and later chief minister to Louis XIV.
The brand specializes in bridal and fashion designs, with prices ranging from €1,000 to €33,000 ($1,093 to $36,074). “Most of our pieces feature colorless diamonds. However, for the bridal collection, we offer some colored lab-grown diamonds, including a range of yellow and some pink diamonds,” says Rothschild, the brand's CEO.
The diamonds are produced in France and the U.S. and cut by Mazarin’s partners in India. All jewelry is entirely crafted in France, with iconic pieces like the Elephant and Eboris collections made in workshops near Place Vendôme.
Here, Rothschild answers some of our questions and explains why she believes lab-grown diamonds are the gateway to luxury.
Why did you choose lab-grown diamonds instead of natural ones?
At Mazarin, we believe the future of eternal jewelry begins with a blend of tradition and new craftsmanship. We are proud to help pioneer a noble new art form with lab-grown diamonds, born from a process that blends the wonders of nature with modern technology. As gemologists and jewelry historians, we are fascinated by the intrinsic beauty, possibilities, and value of lab-grown diamonds, which have the same properties as mined ones. We are proud to support their origins.
Tell us about the elephant totem and its significance.
Mazarin expresses its philosophy through a powerful animal: the elephant. This majestic creature not only symbolizes memory, generosity, and happiness but is also rooted in the ancient tradition of symbolic jewelry. Across cultures, elephants hold significant meaning: in the West, they symbolize power and temperance; in Africa, strength and authority; in Indian mythology, knowledge and wisdom; and in China, vitality and intelligence.
As Keagan and I both have a deep reverence for the past and tradition, the elephant’s message resonated with us. The iconic Elephant collection, with its straightforward yet pure and natural interpretation, speaks to our hearts.
Where is the brand currently sold?
We have a showroom in the Saint-Honoré suburb of Paris, where customers can visit by appointment. We also sell through our online store and Moda Operandi in the U.S.
This year, we are actively expanding our distribution in Europe and the U.S. In June, we will launch our collection at WHITEbIRD in Paris, and we plan to host pop-up events across Europe.
What are your plans for the U.S. market?
We aim to expand our U.S. presence this year with pop-up stores in New York, Miami, and Los Angeles, while also securing a foothold with online retailers. Our goal is to open a boutique in New York within a few years, as we believe our brand aligns well with the desires of American consumers.
From a macro perspective, how do you envision the future of lab-grown diamonds? What will the market look like in five years?
At Mazarin, we firmly believe that mined and lab-grown diamonds will coexist. Natural resources are depleting, and the jewelry industry must embrace lab-grown diamonds to enter the “luxury” market.
In the coming years, the lab-grown diamond market will continue to grow significantly. The lab-grown industry is evolving, technology is advancing, and research and development are ongoing. Manufacturers, polishers, and jewelry designers are investing in new technical experiments and capabilities to meet rising demand.
I am confident that, in five years, most millennials will want a lab-grown diamond ring for their engagement and will come to us for gems that are unmined and sourced from a short production chain. I also believe that more high-end companies, like LVMH, will embrace lab-grown diamonds.
AIDI International Intelligent Diamond Association's "How I Got Here" series is dedicated to promoting more independent jewelry designer brands. As the lab-grown diamond industry evolves, we believe the global jewelry landscape will become more diverse, with a rise in unique, boutique brands. We also encourage Chinese jewelry designers to share their stories. Contact us at info@aidi.org.