Advancing Sustainability in the Industry
WJI 2030, headquartered in Geneva, was jointly launched by Cartier (under Richemont Group) and the luxury group Kering. It brings together watch and jewelry brands, industry associations, and key stakeholders to drive significant transformation in three areas: climate resilience, preservation of natural resources, and the promotion of inclusivity. Currently, WJI 2030 has almost 60 members, guided by the 10 Principles of the UN Global Compact and the 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs). Iris van der Veken, Executive Director of WJI 2030, explains: “Starting in 2024, we will emphasize integrity, transparency, traceability, and circularity more strongly—these goals require the entire industry to work together.”
She notes that the jewelry industry is “closely tied to aesthetics and emotion,” and therefore jewelry businesses bear the dual responsibility of “cultivation and action.” At the same time, the industry must rethink the entire jewelry lifecycle—from design to after-sales service—and explore circular business models. She adds, “While the sustainability components of the supply chain are highly complex, deeper collaboration and sharing of best practices with peers can significantly accelerate progress.”
WJI 2030’s key achievements in 2023 include establishing a cross-sector governance framework, securing commitments from 15 member companies to the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi), and introducing the “Nature Primer,” a roadmap guiding the industry toward a “nature-positive” approach. The roadmap provides concrete steps the industry can take to contribute to a nature-positive world. The initiative also partnered with UN Women to launch a case study on promoting gender-responsive procurement and unveiled a “Human Rights Navigator” tool, providing practical solutions for members who want to understand relevant regulatory systems. “We recognize the importance of SMEs in the responsible supply chain, so in the coming months, we plan to pilot the Human Rights Navigator tool with several suppliers,” Van der Veken remarks.
To ensure the credibility of reporting and prevent “greenwashing,” WJI 2030 will develop key performance indicators (KPIs) based on established sustainability reporting frameworks, such as the Taskforce on Nature-related Financial Disclosures (TNFD), the Global Reporting Initiative (GRI), and SBTi.
Fulfilling Social Responsibilities in the Jewelry Sector
In promoting sustainability as a mainstream concept, the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) has also made significant strides. In June 2023, RJC, GIA, and Harvard University’s Mineralogical & Geological Museum jointly hosted a summit on responsible jewelry entitled “State of the Art Summit.” Moderated by three women, the event brought together experts from MIT and Harvard University, artists, RJC members, and other industry stakeholders. Melanie Grant, Executive Director of RJC, comments: “We reached some conclusions on managing supply chains amid the energy transition. One requirement is to enhance storytelling, invest more educational resources, and engage more effectively when facing both challenges and opportunities, especially so that younger generations inheriting this industry understand why responsible practices in jewelry matter.”
RJC will also host a series of networking events for members to promote and discuss jewelry trade, reflecting on how to move forward with purpose and vision.
China’s AIDI Continues Efforts in Lab-Grown Diamonds
Rate Wang, Secretary-General of AIDI in China, concludes that in 2024, AIDI will continue to actively promote sustainability in the lab-grown diamond industry in China. “The past year was tough, but it brought more hope. An increasing number of forward-thinking people in the lab-grown diamond sector have recognized and begun to accept sustainability concepts. We hope that in 2025, more enterprises will participate in tangible actions. In the past 16 years, the concept of sustainable jewelry has gained extensive traction, and we are committed to ongoing transformation to guide market development,” she explains. “We have also formulated new standards specifically for lab-grown gemstones.”
Challenges in Sustainable Mining Communities
Issues in the supply chain pertaining to sustainable mining communities have similarly attracted attention. Organizations such as DDG and ICA have launched the “Gems Keep Giving” initiative to improve living standards and boost confidence in various mining communities, often located in developing countries where artisanal mining and gemstone cutting are the main economic drivers. Many of these participating communities supplement their income through agriculture and livestock. The ICA’s Gems Keep Giving initiative helps mining communities thrive in a “safe, sustainable, and inclusive” environment. With members in 47 countries, ICA can leverage its extensive global network to strategically maximize impact and make the most effective contributions in targeted areas.
Douglas Hucker, CEO of ICA, states, “Our goal is not merely to provide short-term benefits to these communities. Instead, we aim to work together with community members—miners, cutters, and their families—so they can support themselves and take an active role in sustainable development, resulting in lasting improvements.” The program focuses on building relevant infrastructure that can operate sustainably even after the initial investment. In its inaugural project in Kamtonga Village, Kenya, it offered a sustainable source of clean water for drinking, cooking, washing, and irrigation. “One of our objectives is to extend the reach of the Gems Keep Giving project, particularly among retailers interested in incorporating our vision of sustainability into their business,” Hucker adds.
DDG, a non-profit organization with a global footprint, strongly supports the development of diamond-producing communities and empowerment of their populations in African countries led by Botswana, as well as in India and, starting this year, the Northwest Territories of Canada. It also helps mining families gain access to education and employment opportunities. In 2021, it introduced the DDG Entrepreneurship Grant, which supports 725 entrepreneurs, guided by industry leaders and university professors.
DDG Chair Kathy Corey explains, “Through this initiative, we have provided additional grants ranging from US$5,000 to US$20,000 to 30 of these entrepreneurs to further stimulate business growth and community development.” One of the grant recipients, Tshireletso, is a young farmer in Botswana who has significantly influenced the country’s agriculture sector. “When she signed up for our free entrepreneurship program, she didn’t expect to receive any funding. She went through 16 weeks of rigorous business training, including multiple interviews and sales demonstrations,” Corey says. Tshireletso secured the funds in 2022, and her Erba Farms business began on a windowsill in her parents’ backyard. Today, her brand is sold in over 25 supermarkets across Botswana, creating job opportunities for rural communities. “These funds are concentrated on supporting entrepreneurs whose businesses make a real difference to communities. We look forward to seeing the impact of this program on individuals and communities in the Northwest Territories,” Corey remarks.
ESG Progress for Small Enterprises
With increasing calls for due diligence in the supply chain and rising expectations from both consumers and investors, the need for sustainability reporting has grown more apparent. “Sustainability reporting provides great value for organizations of all sizes. Considering the heightened emphasis on such reports across the value chain, small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs)—particularly those in the midstream—play a pivotal role in enhancing transparency and furnishing valuable data,” Van der Veken explains.
As the industry places more demands on supply chain due diligence, SMEs are increasingly being asked to disclose their ESG data to downstream buyers. Van der Veken notes that their contribution can have a significant impact on the development of a responsible supply chain. Meanwhile, supply chain due diligence requirements in different jurisdictions are continuously tightening, driving full-scale sustainability disclosures throughout the value chain. She also points out that luxury brands are undergoing a fundamental shift; sustainability is no longer just a compliance measure but an inevitable business strategy. SMEs can follow suit by focusing on disclosing the topics most relevant to their operations, effectively managing risks, and showcasing their strengths. SMEs can utilize industry frameworks such as WJI 2030 to ensure consistency in KPI reporting.
Since various SMEs are at different stages in their sustainability reporting journey, balancing quantitative and qualitative data is essential to ensure that reported information is consistent, comparable, and cost-effective. SMEs can streamline their reporting through technology services and platforms such as ESG Book, which helps businesses through the sustainability reporting process. “ESG Book enables companies to maintain control over their data, which can be published and shared with investors and stakeholders,” Van der Veken says.
Corey adds that small businesses can partner with organizations that offer practical roadmaps for achieving ESG goals. “Many companies are already engaged in community development projects in the regions where they operate. Sharing the details of these initiatives with customers demonstrates their commitment to responsible business practices that align with shared values,” she notes.
AIDI’s Rate Wang likewise believes that sustainability-oriented thinking in the jewelry industry will stimulate a chain of actions, such as due diligence, legislative compliance, and the incorporation of sustainability targets into business strategies. “The first step is to take decisive action and then read, listen, and learn more. It’s wise to join relevant initiatives, exchange insights with suppliers, and contribute in your own way. The future of the jewelry industry depends on this,” he stresses.
This content is provided by AIDI, the Association of International Diamonds Intelligent (AIDI). For more global diamond and jewelry industry information, please visit: www.aidi.org.