Marion Fasel, an American author and jewelry historian, has spent over 20 years studying jewelry. In 2021, she published the book Beautiful Creatures: Jewelry Inspired by the Animal Kingdom, which inspired an exhibition at the American Museum of Natural History, where she served as a guest curator.
When asked why she chose 120 "animal" designs from more than a century of jewelry, she said, "They can’t just be beautiful; they must have a soul."
One remarkable piece in her book is a breathtaking necklace featuring two crocodiles intertwined at the tail. Designed in 1975 by Cartier for Mexican actress María Félix, the piece is a testament to her bold personality. Often referred to by The New York Times as the "Supreme Goddess of Spanish-Language Cinema," Félix is remembered for her fierce independence and straightforward demeanor.
Born into a large family of 16 siblings, Félix not only captivated with her exceptional beauty but also became famous for her refusal to conform. She intentionally learned French instead of English, rejecting Hollywood offers that stereotyped her as an "Indian."
She was an artist's muse—French writer Jean Cocteau even painted her portrait. Her relationship with Cartier began in the 1950s. When she commissioned a serpent necklace from them, she remarked, "The snake should attack you, not sit comfortably." Forbes magazine described her as combining a fiery life with Cartier’s understated elegance.
In 1975, Félix walked into Cartier’s boutique on Rue de la Paix in Paris carrying a live baby crocodile, using it as inspiration for her jewelry. Cartier responded with two stunning crocodile designs, adorned with 1,023 yellow diamonds and 1,060 emeralds. This masterpiece is currently on display at the “Cartier: Magic of the Art” exhibition in Shanghai.
Cartier’s Untamed Jungle of Jewelry
Cartier’s new Nature Sauvage High Jewelry Collection, unveiled in 2024, features crocodiles as a prominent theme. The WANI Necklace blends realism and abstraction, transforming a crocodile's elongated body and tail into a circular design reminiscent of mythical Chinese dragons. Using diamonds and emeralds, the necklace’s geometric cuts evoke crocodile scales and ridges, while its piercing emerald eyes exude a lifelike quality. The focal point is three Zambian emeralds weighing a total of 27.83 carats, nestled beneath the crocodile’s claws.
Another highlight is the SIBAYA Necklace, which takes an abstract approach, focusing on the crocodile's scales and spines. Using sugarloaf-cut emeralds, a style that merges sharp edges with rounded surfaces, the necklace hints at the animal’s quiet yet powerful nature.
Cartier’s fascination with reptiles dates back to 1925, with the appearance of crocodiles on cigarette cases. Over the decades, emeralds have often been used to highlight their “dangerous allure.”
Iconic Predators in Cartier’s Designs
Cartier’s jungle extends beyond crocodiles to include leopards, snakes, and even tigers. In 1957 and 1961, American socialite Barbara Hutton commissioned Cartier to create tiger-themed brooches and earrings. This year, the tiger reappears in a bold four-finger ring, featuring a crouching tiger sculpted with diamonds, onyx stripes, and sapphire eyes. The tiger’s body is constructed with mechanical joints, recalling the flexibility of Cartier’s famous 1960s serpent necklaces.
Marion Fasel admires Cartier’s animal-inspired designs, describing them as “sensual and powerful.” The inherent wildness and danger of these creations captivate admirers, awakening primal instincts and the allure of the untamed.
Animals: A Timeless Theme in Jewelry
Throughout history, animals have held a mystical and symbolic role in jewelry. Ancient Egyptians, for instance, revered scarabs as symbols of the sun and rebirth. Later, in post-Gothic times, brooches featured mythical creatures such as unicorns, deer, and swans. After World War II, nature-inspired brooches with birds became popular, reflecting a renewed sense of rhythm and vitality.
Different animals carry unique spiritual meanings, and this symbolism often influences jewelry designs. For Cartier, animals represent strength rather than mere elegance.
Take, for example, the CHRYSEIS Necklace, inspired by the Chryséis butterfly. Featuring a 63.76-carat rubellite, its design incorporates bold contrasts of black onyx, red, and green gemstones, a hallmark of Cartier’s aesthetic.
Cartier’s rendition of elephants leans on Art Deco geometry, as seen in the VAMANA Necklace, which uses emeralds for eyes and diamonds in triangular and kite shapes to outline the creature’s robust features. Its repeating lines and bold forms evoke Picasso’s fragmented imagery.
The Wild Women Behind the Beasts
Cartier’s muses are often bold, independent women. For example:
- María Félix saw reptiles as symbols of independence and freedom, inspiring Cartier’s fierce crocodile and serpent designs.
- Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor, adored Cartier’s leopards, which symbolized courage and determination. Her iconic brooch featuring a leopard atop a 152.35-carat Kashmir sapphire shattered royal conventions, contrasting sharply with traditional floral motifs.
These women, like the beasts they inspired, lived at the top of their game, unafraid to dominate their own paths.
The Artistic Evolution of Cartier
Under the direction of Jeanne Toussaint, Cartier’s creative lead from 1933, animal motifs flourished. Her designs, such as the 1940 flamingo brooch for Wallis Simpson, incorporated sapphires, emeralds, and rubies to dazzling effect.
Creative director Jacqueline Karachi, who has worked at Cartier for four decades, describes her animal designs as "soulful." According to Pierre Rainero, Cartier’s image and heritage director, the company has always strived to create a distinct artistic language that transcends trends.
Cartier’s commitment to its legacy was particularly evident during the 2020 pandemic when it launched its high jewelry collection in Shanghai, despite global disruptions. This resilience has cemented Cartier’s reputation for reliability and excellence.
In 2024, Cartier continues to honor its heritage while pushing boundaries, presenting an array of animal-inspired masterpieces that connect past and future.